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Plug and play adapters, the K2 power supply, boosted wall outlets and DIY boosters, all designed and tested in Geelong. Skip the inverter, save your battery, stay online.
Plug into a cig socket or Anderson plug, connect the Starlink cable, flick the switch. The adapter boosts 12V or 24V up to the clean 30V the Mini is designed for, so you get stable internet without an inverter. Moves between the ute, the hire car and the boat in seconds.
Cig socket in, boosted 30V out. IP67, with a switch. Add a longer cable if you need it.
Same boosted adapter on a 50A Anderson plug for canopies and battery boxes.
Cig plug to boosted 30V on a 3m lead with a waterproof DC plug. Plug it in, done.
140W USB-C cig adapter. Pair with the USB-C to DC cable to run the Mini off USB-C.
One box that runs the Mini off 12V or 24V, converts it to a stable 30V, and switches on and off from up to 25 metres away with the included remotes. Power only flows when it is on, so there is no background drain flattening your battery overnight.
Why the K2The K2 does the boosting, the switching and the battery protection in one unit, with both connection cables in the box. It is the supply we put in our own kits.
See the K2Anderson and cig cables in the box. Plug in or hardwire, then run it from the remote.
Already have a power supply? This inline receiver adds remote on/off to any Mini cable.
A waterproof socket on the outside of the van or canopy, wired to 12V on the inside. Two flavours. A boosted outlet has the 12V to 30V booster built into the socket, so you plug the Mini straight in and nothing else is needed. A plain passthrough is just a sealed connector, you supply 30V behind it from a K2 or booster.
Boosted vs passthroughBoosted means the voltage step-up lives in the socket itself. Run 12V to the back of it, plug the Mini into the front, finished. No booster box to mount inside, no second cable run.
Shop boosted outlets12V or 24V behind the wall, boosted 30V at the socket. Copper contacts, sealed connection.
No booster inside. Feed it 30V from a K2 or Easy Booster and it is a clean waterproof plug point.
Match how you travel and how permanent you want it. Every option here gives the Mini the 30V it wants.
| Feature | Plug and playCig or Anderson adapter | K2Boosted supply + remote | Boosted wall outletSocket on the wall | DIY boosterHardwired |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Best for | Hire cars, utes, moving between rigs | Vans and caravans, set up once | Caravans and canopies | Custom builds, battery boxes |
| Input | 12V or 24V socket | 12V or 24V, cig or Anderson | 12V or 24V behind the wall | 12V, bare tails or Anderson |
| Output to the Mini | 30V boosted | 30V boosted | 30V at the socket | 30V boosted |
| Install | None, plug in | Plug in or hardwire | Cut a hole, wire the back | Hardwire, fused |
| Remote on/off | Switch on the unit | Add inline remote | Add inline remote | |
| Waterproof | Mount under cover | |||
| Take it with you | With the cig cable | |||
| Shop plug and play | Shop the K2 | Shop wall outlets | Shop DIY |
The Mini accepts 12V to 48V, so a plain cable from a cig socket does work. The catch is that 12V sits at the very bottom of that range. Thin cable, a long run or a battery under 12.2V and the dish reboots. A thicker 16AWG cable with a switch helps, a boosted adapter fixes it properly. USB-C is the other route: any true 100W PD charger becomes a Mini power supply.
16AWG, built-in switch and LED. The one to get if you are going cig to dish with no booster.
Basic 12V or 24V cig cable. Fine for short runs and a healthy battery.
3m, 50A grey Anderson plug to Mini. Solid connection for canopies and battery boxes.
USB-C PD to Mini DC. Needs a 100W PD source, pair it with our 140W cig adapter or flush socket.
Three ways to feed the Mini without a dedicated booster. Here is what actually matters.
| Feature | USB-CPD charger to Mini | Cig cable12V socket to Mini | Anderson cable50A plug to Mini |
|---|---|---|---|
| Best for | Reusing a PD charger or power bank | Any vehicle with a socket | Canopies and battery boxes |
| Voltage to the Mini | 20V from the charger | Raw 12V or 24V | Raw 12V or 24V |
| Needs | A true 100W PD source | A healthy battery and short run | An Anderson socket |
| Reboot risk on low battery | Low, the charger regulates | Higher, use 16AWG and keep it short | Lower, thick cable and solid plug |
| On/off switch | On the charger | Premium cable has one | |
| Powers other gear too | |||
| Shop USB-C | Shop cig cables | Shop Anderson |
Battery under about 12.2V or a long thin cable is where a plain 12V feed starts rebooting the dish. If that is your setup, go boosted.
For the builder who wants the booster in the electrical bay, not on the dash. A simple 12V to 30V booster with bare tails and a fuse is cheap, waterproof and set and forget, but has no switch of its own, so add an inline remote or wire it through an isolator. Wide-input boosters that also take 24V or 48V banks cost more and are bulkier, but drop straight into a bigger system.
Waterproof 12V to 30V, pre-wired 10A fuse, bare tails or Anderson. Holds 30V even on a tired battery.
Booster plus a DIY connector to wire straight to the dish. The cheapest way onto 12V.
12V or 24V cig socket adapter with regulated 30V out. Handy for a panel mount.
14AWG, ring terminals, inline fuse. Direct to the battery with no boost, for short runs.
Shorter cables so you are not coiling 15 metres behind the seat, joiners and extenders to relocate the plug point, a wireless remote for any setup, and a Victron isolated converter for the builder who wants clean 24V from a 12V bank.
Premium Mini cable in seven lengths. Get the length you need, not the 15m in the box.
IP66 inline receiver, 12V to 48V. Adds remote on/off to any power supply.
Move the plug point without unmounting the dish.
Join two male Mini cables end to end.
One 12V feed into two outputs, 18AWG.
USB-C to 3.5mm DC for the Mini Router, 2m.
Turn a Mini DC cable into a USB-C PD plug.
Orion-Tr 12/24-5A isolated converter. Clean 24V (120W) from a 12V bank for the Mini or anything else, five year warranty.
Very compact way of ensuring the steady unique voltage required for the Starlink.
This is the best power supply on the market, love the remote isolation, I have been recommending these to all my mates
Love it! Noticable differencce in lower consumption!
The questions we get asked most about running a Starlink Mini off a battery. If yours is not here, ask us.
The Mini accepts 12V to 48V, so a plain cable from a cig socket does work. But 12V is the bottom of that range. A long or thin cable, or a battery below about 12.2V, and the dish drops out and reboots. Boosting to 30V gives it headroom so it stays up. If you are only ever plugging in with a healthy battery and a short run, the 16AWG cable is fine. For anything permanent, go boosted.
No. A booster only draws what the Mini needs, about 22W on average. A 100Ah lithium runs a Mini well over a day. AGM gives noticeably less runtime since only about half the capacity is safely usable. If you hardwire to the vehicle main battery, an isolation switch is a must, or use the K2 so it draws nothing when off.
Plug and play if the Mini moves between vehicles or you want zero install. K2 if it lives in one van or caravan and you want to switch it on and off from your chair. Both give the same clean 30V output.
The 12V to 30V booster is built into the socket. You wire 12V or 24V to the back of it inside the van, plug the Mini in on the outside, and nothing else is needed. A plain passthrough is just a sealed connector, so you still need a K2 or booster behind it.
Yes, with a true 100W PD source and our USB-C to DC cable. Our 140W cig adapter or 100W flush sockets are made for it. Cheap car chargers that claim 100W but cannot hold it are the usual cause of dropouts.
No. Every option on this page replaces the AC brick and runs straight from DC. Skipping the inverter saves the 10 to 15 percent an inverter wastes and removes one more thing to fail.
Orders placed before 3pm AEST on a business day leave our Geelong warehouse the same day. Orders over $100 get free express shipping Australia wide.
